In the fascinating world of jewellery, two powerful symbols stand out: the tooth and the skull. These objects, which may seem macabre, carry deep meanings that have captivated mankind for centuries. From the elegance of the Victorian era, these symbols have transcended time, reminding us of life, death, and everything in between.
THE TOOTH
The tooth is a symbol of time. The practice of piercing teeth, of stringing them into a necklace, is about transcendence in time.
In Gregorian times, the practice of wearing a tooth as a necklace was focused on ‘memento mori’ as a way of reminding us that we will die one day. Later in Victorian times it was worn as a way of venerating and remembering the loss of a loved one.
The tooth as a symbol of loss and remembrance
The human tooth, when mounted as jewellery, symbolised loss, remembrance and perpetual connection with loved ones. The extraction of a tooth and its preservation in a piece of jewellery was a way of materialising the pain of loss, transforming it into a tangible object that could be worn and touched. In a society where infant mortality was high and disease was rampant, such jewellery provided a way of keeping the memory of the deceased close.
In a romantic context, giving one's own tooth to a lover could be a gesture of extreme devotion. This act carried the idea of giving a part of oneself, a symbol of eternal love and commitment. In fact Queen Victoria already wore the first milk tooth of one of her daughters in a gold brooch as a romantic gesture.
Jewellery pieces featuring teeth varied in style and design. From simple pendants to elaborate brooches, these objects were often worked in gold, silver or platinum, and could be decorated with precious stones.
The practice of wearing teeth as jewellery in the Victorian era is a fascinating window into the complexities of a society that navigated between moral rigidity and a deep fascination with death and remembrance.
Today, these jewels tell stories of love, loss and the search for connection in an era when death was much more present in everyday life. They are reminders of how people of that era sought solace and meaning in the objects they carried, transforming sadness into a symbol of endurance and eternal remembrance.
THE SKULL
The skull, a symbol laden with deep and varied meanings, has been used in jewellery throughout history to convey complex and often contradictory messages. From medieval times to the present day, the presence of skulls in jewellery has served to remind the wearer and the beholder of the ephemeral nature of life, the power of rebirth and the strength of the human spirit.
Memento Mori: Remember that you will die
One of the oldest and most persistent meanings of the skull in jewellery is the concept of ‘memento mori’, a Latin phrase meaning ‘remember that you will die’. This symbolism has its roots in Stoic philosophy and medieval Christianity, where the skull served as a constant reminder of human mortality. In jewellery, skulls acted as amulets urging their wearers to live a full and virtuous life, mindful of the transience of existence.
Vanitas: The Futility of the Earthly
Related to memento mori, the idea of ‘vanitas’ comes from Baroque art and refers to the futility of worldly pleasures and the inevitability of death. Jewellery incorporating skulls often included other symbols of impermanence, such as hourglasses, wilting flowers or insects, to reinforce the message that all earthly things are temporary. These pieces were a reflection on the transitory nature of life and the importance of focusing on the spiritual and the eternal.
Rebirth and transformation
In other cultures and contexts, the skull in jewellery symbolises rebirth and transformation. For example, in Mexican culture, skulls are associated with the Day of the Dead, a celebration that honours deceased loved ones and celebrates the continuity of life. Decorated skulls, known as ‘sugar skulls’, represent a cyclical view of life and death, where the end of one life marks the beginning of another. Wearing a skull in jewellery can be a symbol of this endless cycle of death and rebirth.
Protection and Amulets
Throughout history, skulls have also been seen as protective amulets. In various cultures, skulls were believed to ward off evil spirits and offer protection against evil. In this context, wearing a skull on a piece of jewellery could be an act of seeking safety and defence against negative forces.
Related products: The Tooth, The Skull & Memento Mori